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Radio frequency modulation (RF), composite video, and S-video are the lowest rungs. S-video isn't terrible, but you can still do better, often without having to mod your system!

Professional CRT monitors: Sony's PVM/BVM product line is among the best for 15khz gaming. Size and supported inputs vary between models, and retro gamers would want to use an RGB-capable model via SCART-to-BNC cables. The NEC XM series is also a highly regarded option that can support both 15khz (240p) and 31khz (480p) sources. Finding a good deal on these types of monitors on the second-hand market can be tricky depending on where you live, as they were never marketed to the general public, but I've seen people in this very thread pick up quite a few in the vicinity of $100 apiece from businesses that had no further use for theirs, so you never know!


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Ghosts- You know the blue ones that makes the game a little bit more difficult. Each level the monsters gets faster, they are eatable.


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Simple Line Doublers: Retro consoles output 15khz (240p/480i) video. Most modern monitors will only sync to 31khz (480p) signals. These converters double the video signal of a 240p source so that it properly displays the picture on a 480p monitor. This involves very little processing and is likely the ideal solution if you want to use retro consoles on a VGA CRT monitor with the best video quality and virtually no lag. It might also be a viable, if less than ideal, solution for HDTVs that handle 480p content well. Crafty Mech has a low-cost one in the works, although the details and an ETA aren't finalized.


So you have a phenomenal, massive flat panel HDTV in your home theater setup that's awesome for Blu-rays and your HD game consoles, but it makes your retro systems look like ass. Fret not, as there are options to mitigate this problem as well.


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VGA carries an RGBHV signal: red, green, blue, horizontal sync, and vertical sync. It uses the same color space as SCART but supports higher resolutions as well. The Dreamcast is the only console you're likely to use with VGA, and it's the best option for that console.

Classic video game consoles work slightly differently. Generally, their graphics hardware wasn't robust enough to utilize a full 480 resolution at once, so most of them output 240p video instead of 480i (usually), like so. This only uses one field, but it's still updated at the same 60hz rate as normal SD video.

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Switches and misc daisy-chained devices: Every time you add another device into your analog A/V chain, you run the risk of degrading the signal. In the case of quality switches, it is generally okay to chain two-three with little or no degradation. However, take precautions against this by using well-shielded cables, cables that aren't much longer than you need them to be, devices that are confirmed to draw enough power to function properly, and no more intermediate connectors than you need for your convenience.

Artemio's 240p Test Suite is a great way to determine how well your setup handles video content from a video game console. It is freely available for Genesis, Sega CD, Dreamcast, Gamecube, and Wii. If you have a way to run homebrew games for any of those consoles, then give it a shot. With the Sega CD and Dreamcast, it's as simple as burning a CD-R.


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There are of course other avenues to play old games today: backward compatibility between some systems, download services, emulators, and clone consoles. Each of these methods come with unique drawbacks, some of which may matter to you and some of which may not. While the pros and cons of these options are sometimes discussed here, there's not enough room in this OP to delve into all of that, so if you're the type of person who prefers to use original hardware for the genuine experience when possible and want to know how you might be able to do it better, then read on.

Sync: A potentially bothersome issue with RGB cables, system mods, and processors is how they handle sync. VGA cables carry RGBHV format video: red, green, blue, horizontal sync, and vertical sync. SCART cables carry RGBs: red, green, blue, and sync. SCART sync is often called composite sync (c-sync) because it's a combination of both horizontal and vertical sync. It's important not to confuse the difference between composite video and composite sync. Composite video is the combination of ALL video data (brightness, color, and sync), while composite sync is just sync. What makes this a potential issue is that the designated sync pin on SCART cables can actually carry either of these signals, c-video or c-sync! Many TVs and upscalers can utilize either of these signals for sync without any issues, but others specifically require one or the other.


CRT computer monitors: These tend to only have VGA input, so you'd probably still have to invest in additional hardware to use them with anything but a Dreamcast. However, if you still have one laying around the house or know someone who'd be happy to get rid of theirs, and if you don't mind incorporating it into your console gaming setup, then it could be very much worthwhile to do exactly that. Picture quality for monitors often tends to be a significant step up from ordinary TVs, and positioning/convergence/scaling options are more robust. Be aware, however, that scanlines will be virtually non-existent on a 31khz computer monitor when compared to other CRTs, if that's something you care about.

That's fine on old TVs that are interlaced by nature, but this stuff can lead to problems when we're using progressive scan equipment, which basically includes every consumer flatpanel TV and monitor. Adventure time card wars hack tool. Progressive TVs process an entire frame at once instead of alternating fields. This means that 480i60 video is basically fed into the TV like this. Compare this GIF with the first GIF. Instead of updating 1 field 60 times per second, it updates both fields at 30 times per second, which results in choppier motion and more apparent artifacts.


Transcoders (SCART-to-YUV and others): If your TV can handle 240p video through component, and handle it well, then this might be a viable option, although quality can vary and I can't vouch for any particular model. This is something you'd get if you're on a limited budget, just need something to convert a specific signal to something you can use, and can let your TV (or another device) do the actual upscaling. These probably won't be of help if your TV has a poor internal scaler. You can check your TV's 240p performance by using component cables with (1) a 240p PS1 game on a PS2 (doesn't work on PS3) or (2) 240p Wii Virtual Console games (doesn't work on Wii U).

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